Chapter 6: Maintenance and TLC

The Dos and Don'ts of Outboard Care

Many boaters, however, fail to act until it's too late. The time for preventative care is just after your last outing, not just before the next one. Here are key areas of concern you should address.

• Steering systems that use push-pull cables are subject to freeze-up, particularly if the boat is used in salt water. After each use, lightly coat the ram with marine grease and store the engine with the ram in the extended position (generally with the steering wheel turned hard right). Remove and service the ram at recommended intervals.
  
  
• Most swivel brackets (the shaft that allows the outboard to turn) have zerk fittings that should be regularly lubricated with marine grease. If the shaft corrodes in place, it usually takes a torch to break it free.
  
  
• Check the gearcase for water at least quarterly, and certainly before putting the boat in extended storage. Gears and bearings stored in water-contaminated oil are likely to seize and are expensive to replace. Follow the manufacturer's recommended service intervals in changing the lower-unit oil.
  
  
• Regularly pull the prop and grease the propshaft. If you damage your propeller but can't remove it, that spare you're carrying is of little value. While you're at it, check for any loose fishing line that's wrapped around the shaft; monofilament can cut into lower unit seals and cause extensive damage.
  
  
• If you've run the propeller and lower unit through sand or mud, inspect the prop for damage and repair or replace as necessary. A damaged prop is a primary source of poor performance. Promptly repaint scuffed or nicked surfaces on the lower unit (using the manufacturer's touch-up paint). A good barrier coating is your first line of defence against corrosion.
  
  
• An adequate flow of cooling water from the water pump is critical; without it, your outboard will overheat. Water pump inspection and replacement intervals vary depending on the engine manufacturer and type of pump, but one to three years is typical. Running an outboard in sand- or silt-laden water can damage its impeller, and will require more frequent servicing. Never operate an outboard without feeding water to the lower unit. The life expectancy of a water pump that's run dry is as short as 10 seconds.
  
  
• When it comes to two-stroke outboards, spray-type, chemical-based engine treatments are an important part of any maintenance regimen. Since piston rings do not rotate on a two-stroke piston, carbon deposits can form between the piston and piston ring. Once a ring sticks, the piston's sealing ability is diminished and performance suffers. If allowed to continue, it may score the cylinder wall or worse. Either way, you'll have to rebuild the powerhead. Chemical treatments should be used on a regular basis; check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations.
  
  
• Oil is the lifeblood of any outboard. Owners of four-stroke engines need to change the oil and filter per manufacturers' specifications to ensure a long service life. Two-stroke outboards burn a mixture of oil and gasoline, and nearly every outboard engineer we've spoken with recommends using the oil offered by the outboard's manufacturer. These products are designed to work with that specific engine. The way we see it, the price difference between bargain-basement oil and the manufacturer-recommended oil is but a fraction of the cost of owning and operating your boat. Don't skimp on the oil you use. Space does not allow us to cover every facet of outboard care. Your owner's manual is the best source of information for developing a comprehensive maintenance routine that will ensure many years of trouble-free enjoyment from your new outboard.

Your Guide to Outboards

Introduction	Chapter 1	Chapter 2
- Your Guide to Outboards	- Choosing an Outboard	- Technologies and Trade-offs
Chapter 3	Chapter 4	Chapter 5
- Outboard Systems	- Helpful Accessories	- Optomising Performance