Most sailors departing Sydney turn left at the heads and set a course for Queensland, unable to resist the allure of the tropics.

For many, the thought of heading along the NSW south coast comes a distant second to balmy weather and palm trees. Even those who hail from southern states often see the south coast as more of a stumbling block than a cruising area in its own right.

Far from untouched, but seldom cruised, the area is one of Australia's prettiest, and can be day-sailed under most circumstances.

SOUTHERN ADVENTURES
The NSW south coast is generally defined as the section south of Sydney to the Victorian border, some 250nm.

With the Great Dividing Range cramming closer to the Tasman Sea as it snakes south, the view from offshore is increasingly that of bold headlands, towering escarpments and hinterlands of peaks and valleys.

The weather is dominated by an endless progression of highs and lows sweeping west to east, producing a mix of northerlies, southerly changes and calms - the latter often gracing the area in late autumn.

Overnight stops are possible in no less than 14 ports - eight of which have no dangerous bar. Only the bars of Narooma and Moruya command considerable respect.

The following checklist of ports and anchorages is in order of appearance from south to north, and will no doubt tempt many an ocean traveller.

EDEN
This welcoming haven is located on the northern side of huge Twofold Bay, which can be entered night or day in virtually any weather. It's a popular spot for Sydney-Hobart race yachts after dropping out with gear failure.

A large fleet of fishing boats is also based here. They now have access to a new naval jetty, which frees up many of their old berths for visitors.

The Mooring Jetty in Snug Cove offers protection from inclement weather as well as facilities and access to town, while the bays along the southern shore of Twofold Bay are pleasant stops. To the west, Boydtown was once an early settlement and whaling base. 

BERMAGUI
One of the south coast's fishing hot spots, Bermagui is 42nm north of Eden. Although a barred harbour, the shallowest water is under the lee of the headland and can be navigated in most weather conditions.

However, the beam swell on approach can be tricky when the south-east swell is high.

Anchoring in the harbour is prohibited, and although finding a berth can be a challenge, the local coastguard (VMR) will usually assist you in finding a spare fishing-boat slot.

NAROOMA
Also known as Wagonga Inlet, this pretty breakwater port has a problem or two. Its bar is strictly for fair-weather crossing with a near-high tide, and the crowded council wharf seldom has space for visitors.

Anchorages are restricted by retaining walls and shoals.

Determined sailors should wait for calm weather and neap tides. It is also possible to have the Princes Highway bridge opened to explore the mini-cruising ground of the lovely Wagonga Inlet.

MORUYA
Just 19nm north of Narooma, Moruya has an equally tricky bar. Navigating it is not recommended in anything other than ideal conditions.

It can deteriorate rapidly in northerly weather, and so remains largely untouched, with no facilities except a crumbling public wharf and a small hireboat business willing to help visitors.

Historically, Moruya is especially interesting, as all the granite for the Sydney Harbour Bridge was quarried here and shipped by barge through its once-dredged entrance.

BATEMANS BAY
Forming a wide, easily approached 'funnel' into the Clyde River, Batemans Bay is open to the south-east swell, but its small spread of islands and progressively decreasing depths provide good bar protection.

A marina and tolerable anchorage is between the bar and opening bridge. A more commodious anchorage can be found upstream of the Clyde River Bridge, which has a maximum headway of 22.8m (open). There are overhead cables further upstream, just 15m above HWS.

ULLADULLA
Another 30nm north, this busy fishing port is available to visitors with temporary berths under the lee of the southern breakwater. Inquiries can be made through the Coastal Patrol.

Facilities are good, but in demand, and the fleet has a distinct Mediterranean flavour stemming from its founding by Slavatore Pugilisi in 1937.

JERVIS BAY
A natural gem that is now a marine park, Jervis Bay is 22nm miles from Ulladulla and surrounded by national park. Its spectacular portals of towering cliffs provide great depths to well inside the bay, making it a perfect all-weather haven.

However, these same portals produce an uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous rebound swell, so batten down during onshore winds.

Darling Road, under the lee of the bay's southern headland, is the most popular southern anchorage. Depths are around nine metres, but the holding is good and the water clear. During northerlies, anchoring bans deny the best protection in Hare Bay, but mooring outside to the west is okay.

Facilities are concentrated near the town of Huskisson at the entrance to Currambene Creek, but forward plan to avoid crowds. Anchor in fair weather off Vincentia for access to good shopping.

CROAKHAVEN RIVER
An easy 15nm north of Jervis Bay, this magnificent area has an entrance similar to Bermagui. It hides under the lee of a headland that protects its shallowest part and can be entered in deteriorating weather.

A few miles upstream is the main centre, Greenwell Point, with a beach to land the dinghy, hotels, cafés, shops, swimming pool and fishing-boat berths.

There's a bus to the major centre of Nowra, 20km inland. Alternatively, you can sail there if your vessel can pass under an overhead cable with 12.2m LWS through Berrys Canal and into the Shoalhaven River.

If you can clear the 7.3m Nowra Bridge, many more miles can be explored.

KIAMA HARBOUR
Another 15nm segment of coast passes dairy country and spreading suburbia to one of Australia's cutest havens.

Kiama Harbour is tiny, surge-prone, usually busy and offers a quite sophisticated township. It may be a futile gesture, but good depths allow the bow to be poked inside in search of space, with the visitor's berth immediately inside the northern wall. 

PORT KEMBLA
In stark contrast to Kiama's charms, this is an industrial coal and steel port.

Its conspicuous high chimney is a landmark for miles in all directions and offers welcome relief from inclement weather to recreational craft.

Check with Harbour Control on VHF channel 11 and follow instructions - but don't expect to be allowed ashore.

WOLLONGONG HARBOUR
Within sight of Port Kembla, Wollongong Harbour is 42nm south of Sydney. Similar to Kiama in concept, it has an extra wall to protect moored vessels.

With co-operation from Coastal Patrol and local fishing-boat owners, it is possible to find a temporary berth. Otherwise the public jetty is limited to 24 hours.

Facilities are excellent, and the city of Wollongong is an easy walk away.

PORT HACKING
The 25nm sail between Wollongong and Port Hacking offers vistas of long, almost unbroken escarpment combined with the bushland of Sydney's Royal National Park.

This ends abruptly at Hacking Point, beyond which the high-rise of Cronulla indicates the start of Sydney.

Nestled between national park and suburbia, Port Hacking offers a unique selection of bush anchorages or full-on facilities. Its northern bays are deep, but their entrances are barred by moving sand. A rising tide is best when entering the port or its bays.

BOTANY BAY
The 'birthplace' of white Australia when Captain Cook landed in 1770, Botany Bay is now Sydney's main commercial port.

Between developed Port Botany on the eastern side, the encroaching airport from the north and the oil refinery to the south, there is little to attract the visiting sailor. There is, however, a good overnight southerly anchorage to the west of the refinery infrastructure.

Its main attraction is access to the scenic Georges River. Unfortunately, for the masted vessel, this is denied by Captain Cook Bridge at 16.6m headway and, soon after, Tom Ugly's Bridge at 5.6m headway.

SYDNEY HARBOUR
Human activity will never deny this magnificent waterway its rightful place as one of the world's greatest natural harbours. But its rapid change from a working port to one of waterfront 'Tuscan palaces' and condominiums is not everyone's cup of tea.

Upon entry past the splendid cliff-faced headlands, the visitor will enjoy a protected waterway almost entirely free of isolated rocks and reefs. There's precious little space for anchorage, but of the available areas none is more attractive than the dedicated visitor anchorage at Balls Head Bay, upstream from the Harbour Bridge. Otherwise, there are marinas galore with excellent facilities.

With Port Hacking, Botany Bay, Sydney Harbour and Pittwater all within an hour or two of each other, there are many opportunities to see Sydney from alternatively different anchorages and marinas. It's a cruising ground in itself and a great place to finish - or continue - a south coast cruise.

CHARTS AND PUBLICATIONS
Small-scale coastal charts AUS 359, 360 and 361 overlap and fully cover the NSW south coast. The larger 800 series (AUS 806, 807, 808) is recommended for better detail.

Alan Lucas' Cruising the New South Wales Coast includes large-scale plans, but large-scale charts are suggested, including AUS 191, 193 and 195. If more detail is required on Botany Bay and Sydney Harbour, AUS 198, 199, 200, 201, 202 and 203 are recommended.

VMRs from south to north

• Eden - Coastal Patrol
• Merimbula - Coastal Patrol
• Bermagui - Coastal Patrol
• Narooma - Coastal Patrol
• Moruya - Coastal Patrol
• Batemans Bay - Coastal Patrol
• Ulladulla - Coastal Patrol
• Jervis Bay - Coastal Patrol
• Crookhaven River - Shoalhaven Marine Rescue
• Kiama - Coast Guard
• Shellharbour - Coast Guard
• Port Kembla - Coast Guard
• Wollongong - Coastal Patrol
• Port Hacking - Coast Guard
• Botany Bay - Coast Guard and Coastal Patrol
• Sydney Harbour - Coast Guard and Coastal Patrol

Berthing and refuelling

• MARINAS
• Batemans Bay
• Botany Bay (in George's River upstream of Captain Cook Bridge)
• Port Hacking (one or more in various bays)
• Sydney Harbour (in North Harbour, Middle Harbour, eastern suburbs and near western suburbs)

OBLIGATORY ALONGSIDE BERTHS (USUALLY FREE)

• Bermagui
• Ulladulla
• Kiama
• Wollongong

ALONGSIDE FUEL (TANKERED FUEL NOT INCLUDED)

• Eden
• Bermagui
• Batemans Bay
• Ulladulla
• Wollongong
• Port Hacking
• Botany Bay (Georges River)
• Sydney Harbour