The tiny town of Exmouth has a population of a little more than 2500 permanent residents. Located on the vast, red, arid expanse of Norwest Cape, roughly 1270km or 12 hours drive north of Perth, Exmouth withstands temperatures well into the high 40s during summer and very little rain throughout the year. The Cape's 90km stretch is sparsely vegetated with rugged, weathered ranges separating the ocean on the west, from the Exmouth gulf on the east.
If this isn't sounding too appealing, wait... there's more. The magnificent Ningaloo Reef kisses the Western Australian coastline at Exmouth and the natural structure attracts all species of fish. Ningaloo Marine Park stretches along 260km of the coast, and it is here that the continental shelf passes the closest in WA with waters reaching depths of 1000m within 10 nautical miles from shore. This is what makes a visit to Exmouth worth the long trailerboat trip.
REEF FISHING
Exmouth offers a variety of fishing and water-based recreational pastimes. The waters of the Exmouth Gulf on some days can be as flat and smooth as glass, while at other times a persistent wind can blow on the west side of the cape facing the Indian Ocean. This contrast in conditions allows more flexibility and can be fantastic for water sports including wakeboarding, kite boarding and fishing, not to mention snorkelling in the shallow reefs adjacent to the marina.
With today's conservation-minded population, many anglers come here on a sportsfishing holiday: catching and releasing as many different species as possible, and keeping just a few fish for a fresh feed. Gone are the days of filling eskys with hundreds of kilos of fish; a necessary change if we all want to come back again year after year to experience these wonderful places.
The Exmouth Gulf is what the locals call a "nursery" with many juvenile fish, turtles, dugong, and at certain months of the year humpback whales. Don't let the word nursery fool you though, as there are still many large fish species that can be encountered in these waters that span an area of 2600sqkm with a mean depth of 11.9m. The yacht club has regular cruising weekends to the islands in the gulf and the fishing club has regular competitions, and both clubs welcome visitors.
The largest fish in the ocean passes each year from March–June: the magnificent whaleshark, progressing slowly along the coast gulping gallons of water and feeding on tiny creatures such as krill and fish spawn. These nutrient-rich waters are home to 250 species of coral and more than 500 species of fish, including six species of billfish and more than 30 species of gamefish.
One of the best attractions of the area (particularly for water babies like me) is that there are no crocodiles and no deadly stingers. Of course, being Australia, Exmouth does still have its share of dangerous creatures, with the odd stonefish, plenty of Noahs and a few snakes on dry land.
ACCESS POINTS
The west coast is accessible by one major boat ramp at Tantabiddi, while several other beach-launching options are available from camping places within the Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Marine Park. There are several sanctuary zones where fishing is prohibited, so it is best to stop in town to check regulations with the Fisheries Office before venturing out on the water. The Fisheries Office is in the centre of town close to the police station and the tackle shops have all the necessary information.
The boat ramp at Bundegi provides access to the Muiron Islands north off the tip of the Exmouth Cape. This four-mile long stretch of islands lies nine nautical miles from shore and offers some fantastic sportsfishing, fly-fishing, snorkelling and diving. The coral bombies here can be dangerous for newcomers and once again, it's best to get advice from the local tackle shop or dive centre.
The third major launching facility is within the safe waters of the marina, right next to the town centre. This is best for larger vessels and gives access to the Exmouth Gulf. Naturally it also offers the most protected launching or retrieving in bad weather. Alternatively there are pens available for larger vessels, but booking is advisable.
If your plan is to stay ashore in town every night you have the choice of holiday homes to hotels, backpackers and caravan parks, and it is best to book ahead to save disappointment. The local visitor centre is the best information outlet; tel (08) 9949 1176.
The major airport at Learmonth, 30kms south of Exmouth, has regular flights with Skywest from Perth and Broome, along with other regional towns. You can choose to fly in and hire a car and boat or dinghy. Alternatively, take your cue from the groups of keen anglers that drive from Melbourne each year to the Broome Sailfish Tournament, stopping at many ports en route, including Exmouth: wow, what a holiday! Either way, if you want to have an adventure with many options, then I suggest you make the voyage to Exmouth.
For further information on Exmouth and Ningaloo Reef, email jeni@reelgirls.com.au
EXMOUTH FACTS
Summer temperature Averages high 30°C
Winter temperature Averages mid–high 20°C
Rain Minimal
Cyclone risk times Nov–April - Only one bad cyclone on record. Plenty of warning given
Winds Predominantly south-west in summer, although many options within the Cape to escape prevailing winds
Swell Compared to east coast, minimal. Many safe options inside Ningaloo Reef. During winter popular surf breaks north of Tantabiddi are visited by many Margaret River surfers escaping the colder waters of the south
Tidal difference Under 3m during spring tides, providing great visibility
Published : Thursday, 1 September 2005
Issue : September 2005