There’s nothing quite like a lake to soothe your soul and wash away your cares. So imagine the cumulative effect of four interconnecting lakes and just as many days travelling about them on a comfortable cruiser. After a test of nerves negotiating the Myall River, which is at times no wider than a one-way street and in the aptly named Lakes District on the NSW mid-north coast, it seemed like nature’s own health retreat, complete with rejuvenating waters, meditative scenery, clean air, breathing space… Where do I start?

While you can come by car and launch a trailerboat, to fully appreciate the amazing restorative powers of the Myall Lakes you really must take the skinny Lower Myall River all the way from Tea Gardens. Though it will seem incongruous bringing a big boat up such a narrow river, there’s much fun to be had. And when you finally reach the lakes it will feel like you have achieved something great. And you have.

At its worst, the river looks like a puddle of mud no more than a foot deep.
“It must be deeper on your side,” I quietly said to my cohort, as the outriggers flicked an overhanging branch.

“It’s not,” came the quavering reply, then silence as the motors pulled back to neutral.
We ghosted across a mudflat where the depthsounder showed 0.8m. One motor into gear, then out, then the other – it’s called ‘walking the dog’ – and we made it through the Brasswater. Drop the ‘Br’ and the name might sound more appropriate, but the truth is big boats make it up here all the time. This is everyday navigating on the Myall.

At four knots, which you have to do on the no-wash Lower Myall River, we estimated that it would take us four hours to reach Myall Lake, the uppermost pond about 80km from our starting point at Tea Gardens. Together, the river and lakes cover 123 square kilometres, so there’s plenty to see. In fact, our four days on the lakes is little more than a recreational stop. So, if you plan the trip, allow a week at least. Two would be great.

MAKING PLANS
Before casting the lines we studied every book and chart we could find. The good news was that a boat drawing less than one metre could reach the lakes without touching the bottom. The bad news was that a boat like ours, which draws 1.5m, could expect to touch several times unless travelling at optimum tide. Not content with that assurance, we phoned everyone we knew – and some we didn’t – to get some tips for the trip. The consensus was that we would make it, but we should travel at the top of the tide. Other crucial advice was to stick to the outside of the bends when navigating the river. And watch out for submerged logs.

After steaming from Sydney we passed beneath the so-called Singing Bridge (apparently it hums in the wind) at Tea Gardens and secured the single courtesy mooring in the Lower Myall River. We had been four hours at sea and gladly sat out the low tide while doing some exploring on foot and by tender. The plan was to set off at daybreak on the high tide. With no immediate commitments we took the afternoon off. A stroll around Tea Gardens took us to the local pub and then the friendly Fishermen’s Co-Op for Port Stephens oysters, local blue swimmer crabs and a couple of kilos of Myall River prawns.

Sunset was spent kicking back on the transom, devouring sweet crustaceans, their juices running down our sleeves, cracking crab claws and prawns in record time. There was a warm breeze in the air on what turned into a memorable sunset, while a school of bream polished off the leftovers flung overboard. We studied the chart once more, noting the sharp bends on the Myall River at places with names such as Monkey Jacket, Black Oaks, the ominous sounding Devils Elbow and Dark Corner. There was shallow water at the Brasswater and Chinamans Nob, but we had heard that Tamboy, the last settlement on the river, would be the trickiest part of the journey. With that in mind, we wanted to be there at the top of the tide. We later found out that there was virtually no tide at Tamboy. The most tidal part of the river, and the place to be at the top of the tide, is about 30 minutes upstream from Tea Gardens around a place, where they net prawns, called Zeiningers.

But for all intents and purposes we were set for our big adventure. I went to sleep carrying the mental image that tomorrow we would be anchored on a placid lake, our stern line tied to an obliging tree trunk, sipping a cool drink in the afternoon sun. Just like in the brochures. But what I didn’t count on was the remarkable journey just getting there.

We departed Tea Gardens with full water, two-thirds fuel, loaded fridges and plenty of stores. Green, excited, and just a little bit nervous, too. I was on log patrol – our greatest fear was not so much the soft river bottom as a submerged log – and ticked off the navigation markers on a chart as we passed them. Luckily, I knew my cans from my cones as it was often difficult to make out the colour of the channel markers in the morning sun and the scenery was very distracting.

The Lower Myall River, which runs about 25km from Tea Gardens to the first lake, called Bombah Broadwater, is a no-wash zone and speed restrictions apply. It didn’t bother us, however; we were happy to slip along at a slow idle taking in the sights. We pass Witts, Slip, Motum and Dredge islands, where the water shallows to about 1.3m on the depthsounder. In reality, we had another 0.7m on top of the reading, but we drifted through just to make sure.

Near Zeiningers is a camping ground and picnic area replete with tinnies, caravans, tents and folding furniture, but that’s the end of civilisation. A bend away the landscape takes on the appearance of African flood plains and I half expected to see a herd of elephants charging towards us. Another bend and, in absolute contrast, we were in the middle of a pine forest. Out of Africa and into Germany. A screeching flock of black cockatoos rose from the trees and circled above us.

From the bow, where I was snapping photos, it appeared we were heading for the pine trees at full speed. I looked up at the skipper in the bridge, only to see the back of his head. My shriek, heard above the black cockatoos, prompted him to pull the throttles into reverse and back up hard. He confessed he was watching two bikini-clad anglers fishing in a tinnie at the time. Some advice to skippers: beware of all navigation hazards, especially those in swimwear.

We caught sight of quaint fishermen’s cottages, a couple of public wharves and picturesque picnic spots before getting a little delirious and giggling our way through Engles and Long Reach, where there’s a bush backdrop. The water was cloudy but thankfully we were able to make out the submerged logs. After an hour or so we saw the line of channel markers telling us we were in the Brasswater. Halfway through, the sounder hit 0.7m, a new PB, prompting us to drift. Made it. Just.

Next we passed a rainforest where the cabbage palms were a lurid shade of green. Then, Tamboy. Despite our fears we made it through the last river settlement and, with great excitement, burst into the Bombah Broadwater. What a contrast! It was like an immense inland sea, encircled by hazy mountains with a lone sailboat silhouetted against the majestic ranges. Black swans floated among the reeds. Once in the lake proper you quickly gain an understanding of its vastness. And to think there were still three more lakes to go!

LAKE LEISURE
Each of the Myall Lakes – Bombah Broadwater, Two Mile Lake, Boolambayte Lake and Myall Lake — has its own personality and, after three hours on the skinny and at times torturous Myall River, they were a tonic for our frazzled nerves. We marvelled at the broad expanse of water and the great sense of space. With the sun beating down and the haze in the air – not to mention the adrenalin still pumping through our veins – it could have been Xanadu. The sight of other pleasure seekers brought us back to earth.

On the Broadwater, there were oodles of campsites and picnic grounds dotting the shores. The most popular is Mungo Brush where you can follow one of many bushwalks around the lake or skip over the sand dunes to a beautiful beach with views to Broughton Island. If you feel like trying your luck at fishing or prawning, the Broadwater is the best place to do it on Myall Lake. The best anchorages are at Mungo Brush and Stony Point. If you’re after more river adventure, head west up the Upper Myall all the way up to Bulahdelah where there’s a pub and wharf. But for us, the lakes call loudest.

After bisecting the Broadwater, the eco resort called Myall Shores Resort (previously Legges Camp) at Bombah Point and a car ferry marked the entrance to Two Mile Lake, which ranges as far as a no-boating tributary called Boolambayte Creek. At the resort you can take on supplies, bore water, anchor or grab a mooring and take the tender in for a nosh up at the restaurant. For the most part, the resort is busy and, well, we came for something else.

As far as anchorages go, Wallaby Jones Bay or the lovely little cove known as Professors opposite Korsemans, another camping ground with its own boat ramp, were my pick. Two Mile Lake is also much-loved by waterskiers, wakeboarders and trailerboats towing tubes, some of which looked to be having fun in the three-metre deep protected watercourse. We continued on in search of peace.

A rural theme continued in Boolambayte, the third lake and Sheep and Goat islands looked interesting for a day trip. We’d been told there’s a freshwater tank on the top of Sheep Island should things become desperate. There’s another campsite, including a boat ramp and wharf, at Violet Hill, where you’ll find protection from most winds and public moorings. There’s car access here, so it’s a great place to pick up guests, though it’s busy since the national parks authorities restricted camping at many of the traditional lakeside sites.

MYALLS FROM CARE
By the time we reached Myall Lake the 30kt southerly had arrived with gusto (pun intended) and the wind was whipping the normally placid lake into a frenzy. The best anchorages were on the eastern side of this huge body of water; try Tickerbait, Shelley Beach, Blossom Point, Long Point Bay, Kataway Bay and Neranie Sands. The western side is shallow and muddy, as we found out, much to our displeasure. We were bound for Kataway Bay where Kataway Hill would provide protection from the wind.

To get to Kataway Bay, hug the shore, keeping clear of Bibby Harbour, which is very shallow. But don’t range too wide, as we did, because the water is only a couple of metres deep and full of weed. It was here that we lost our momentum and the natural high that had propelled us all the way from Tea Gardens. We backed out, checked the engines and water strainers, drew breath, and gingerly continued on.

When we finally entered Kataway (which we renamed Castaway) Bay, we expected a standing ovation, or at least a round of applause, but the other boats seeking shelter from the big wind barely batted an eyelid. We put down the anchor and, to be on the safe side, 20m of chain. As soon as the anchor grabbed so did I – in keeping with tradition – a bottle of champers to celebrate our safe arrival. But we’d barely finished the first glass when a neighbour called out to tell us that our anchor was dragging and we’d need to put all of our chain out.

“Fifty metres of chain?” I asked incredulously.
“Yep. We’ve got 80m down,” was the response. “And don’t drive back on it; just let the boat take up the slack.”

Apparently the dense weed stops the anchor from grabbing. We tried again, this time paying out 49m of chain despite being in two metres of water.

Now, where were we? Ah, champagne and Myall River prawns. It’s amazing what adventure does for the appetite.

THE LAKE LIFE
We came seeking relaxation and, I’m very glad to tell you, it was laid on thickly in Myall Lake. Each night I went to bed under a star-laden sky, listening to the distant sound of surf crashing onto the beach near Seal Rocks through the scrubby rise. I woke to a lake cloaked in fog, which rose as slowly as my partner. When the sun climbed over the mountains we considered retrieving the anchor and cruising to Neranie Sands to explore its sandy beach. From Neranie we could launch the tender and hike on foot to Bungwahl where there’s a general store and grog shop and a Fishermen’s Co-op doing, hopefully, more prawns.

Instead we passed the days bobbing about in the tender, seeking refuge under the tangle of paperbarks, floating around in knee-deep water on golden sandflats and gazing wistfully over the lake. We dived, but the fish life isn’t prolific.

After a few days of mooching around the lake, the marine growth on our boat died a natural death, leaving the hull smooth as a baby’s bottom. What a bonus.

Evenings were spent meeting neighbours and, in all my time chatting to boaties, this was the friendliest waterway I had visited. Ahead of us, 15 trailer sailers from Lake Macquarie were enjoying their annual regatta, upping anchor by day to race to a different location for lunch and returning for the raft-up. Behind us, the Myall Lakes Aquatic Club was enjoying a regular visit. The chatty members were quick to welcome us to their favourite haunt and share their local knowledge. We even managed to hitch a ride home behind the vice commodore.

In three short days we barely ruffled the surface of these pristine and magical lakes and felt cheated we had to leave so soon. The water is intoxicating, clear, and ever-so-slightly brackish. It leaves your skin soft and warm and your hair silken and shiny. It revives your spirit. Myall Lakes. Miles from care.

FACTS AND FIGURES
The Myall Lakes National Park is about 240km north of Sydney and consists of four interconnected waterways: Myall Lake, Boolambayte Lake, Two Mile Lake and the Bombah Broadwater.

Myall Lake is mostly fresh water and the other three lakes are slightly salty. The total waterway area of the lakes and river is 123 square kilometres with a catchment area of 1660 square kilometres.

The Myall Lake system was once home to the Worimi and Birpai tribes and Myall is an aboriginal word for wild. Which it is if you come by boat.

Boat access is via the Upper Myall River from Bulahdelah or, as we proved, via the Lower Myall River from Tea Gardens. The main centres are Tea Gardens, Hawkes Nest, Bombah Point, Bungwahl, Nerong, and Bulahdelah.

Wildlife includes 266 species of birds, six species of fish found nowhere else, dingos, wallabies, possums, and a range of reptiles. Dolphins are seen in the river and as far as the Broadwater.

According to the latest draft-zoning plan from the marine parks authority, the recently declared Port Stephens-Great Lakes Marine Park will impact on the Myall river and lakes. The map is available online and submissions may be made until August 21. Visit www.mpa.nsw.gov.au for more information.

GETTING THERE
Boats with a draft of more than one metre should travel at high tide, which is about 2.5 hours after Fort Denison. Aim to be 30 minutes upstream from Tea Gardens at the top of the tide.

The NSW Maritime Boating Map 7B for the Myall River and Myall Lakes is indispensable. See www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/maps.html.

The detailed Boating Guide to Myall Lakes and Port Stephens is available from Port Stephens Visitors Centre, phone 1800 808 900 or visit www.geocities.com/freemaps/myall.pdf

PROVISIONING
Fuel, gas, ice, water and supplies are available at Tea Gardens Boat Shed, Bulahdelah, Myall Shores and Bungwahl Store. At Bungwahl, petrol will have to be carried in drums.

The general store is a couple of kilometres from Neranie, but it will deliver purchases over $100 to the shore by prior arrangement. Phone reception is good. Phone (02) 4997 6132.

Myall Shores has a café, restaurant and shop open to visiting boaties. See www.myallshores.com.au or phone (02) 4997 4495.

Boats pump out holding tanks into the mobile barge. It’s on channel 16 on VHF and 88 on 27MHz. There are public pump-out facilities at Myall Shores and Bulahdelah, too.

LAKE AMENITIES
Boat ramps: Bombah Point, Mungo Brush, Violet Hill, Bungwahl, Nerong, Bulahdelah and Hawks Nest-Tea Gardens.

Courtesy moorings: Myall Shores, Professors Cove, Violet Hill, Long Point Bay and Kataway Bay.

Boat-based camping sites: Brambles Green, Rivermouth, Joes Cove. Freshwater: Two Mile Sands, Mackaway Bay, Johnsons Beach, Shelly Beach and Sunny Side. Fees are payable and no bookings are accepted.

There are camping grounds throughout the system. Boats anchored adjacent to campsites may be deemed to be using the facilities and charged accordingly. Access has been restricted because of concerns about falling tree limbs. See www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au for more information.

Join Myall Lakes Aquatic Club for a small fee, meet the chummy members
and pickup plenty of local knowledge.  See www.mlac.org.au

Tea Gardens Visitors Centre, Myall Street, Tea Gardens. Phone (02) 4997 0111.
NSW Maritime at Tea Gardens, phone
(02) 4997 1836.