Adventures in paradise

You might think the Whitsundays are well worn, too familiar and been done to death. That Whitehaven is ho-hum, Hayman is high priced and Hamilton is commercial. You might think that cruising around on a second-hand charterboat with 80 litres of water and the ingrained smell of 1000 sweaty backpackers is not your idea of fun. And with that, your thoughts turn to far-flung destinations with swaying palms and strange customs.

But if you like boating holidays, then put the Whitsundays back on the top of your list, but not from any old boat. Luxury charter company Ocean Dynamics is out to change seasoned skippers' preconceived ideas about the Whitsundays.

Based at Hamilton Island, the company has three new boats available for skippered or, get this, drive-yourself charters. They include a crewed-only Maritimo 60 Ocean Free, Riviera 47 Ocean Magic and Riviera 40 Ocean Blue. With these fast five-star charter craft you are promised a whole new Whitsundays experience.

However, that's only half the story. While the majority of customers go for crewed day charters, you can self-skipper the two Rivieras provided that: (1) you can prove you own a similar boat to those in the fleet; (2) you provide references from, say, your boat dealer confirming you can operate your boat and all of its systems competently; and (3) you demonstrate to the management that you have the appropriate boating and navigation skills to operate the vessels.

The Riviera 47 costs about $2200 per day for a self-skippered charter for three to seven nights, plus fuel (around $1.50 per litre). Or, for eight to 14-night charters, $2000 per day plus fuel.

The idea of self-skippering a flash 40-footer aroused our - and doubtless many other Riviera (or similar powerboat) owners – interest. After all, the Whitsundays is around 930nm from Sydney and the return fuel bill for a 40-footer would be at least $15,000, plus all the other expenses such as marina fees. Considering you can fly direct to Hamilton Island or Proserpine in just over two hours, we decided to cut to the chase.

Further, once you rediscover the Whitsundays by luxury boat courtesy of the Ocean Dynamics' charter fleet, you are better versed to take your own boat to the Whitsundays. Savvy boat buyers have even been known to use the charters as a try-before-you-buy experience and, as ever, the Whitsundays is a tough and telling test. And if you really like the experience, you can even invest in the fleet - Ocean Dynamics is looking to expand in the Whitsundays

As the three boats are in 1F Survey, self-skippered charterers are restricted to the usual bareboat cruising grounds bounded by Border Island to the east. But with a skipper (around $500 extra per day) you can go any which way including all the way to the Outer Reef to explore Hook, Line, Sinker, Barb, Bait and Hardys Reefs about 30km from Hamilton Island. In the right conditions, you can even stay at Bait Reef and watch the moon shimmer over the water while the crew fetch dinner and, later, fish splash in the lights.

ALL ABOARD
Needless to say, Trade-A-Boat isn't averse to some serious luxury boating so, in the name of duty, Yours Truly, partner and our seven-month-old baby jumped aboard Ocean Magic, the Riviera 47, for a long-weekend of Whitsundays cruising. On its website, Ocean Dynamics offers custom options such as a chef, hostess, masseuse or dive instructor. We ordered them all... only joking. But we did have them arrange catering for about $70 per person per day plus grog. Who wants to cart food and plonk?

Just over two hours from Sydney we arrive at Hamilton Island where our skipper, captain Andrew Wadham, meets us. A short golf buggy ride takes us to the impressive marina where we met our hostess (Wadham's partner) Sharee McBlean. Some investigative journalism reveals the couple met during a try-sailing day off Mooloolaba. Not long after, they threw in their careers (he was doing boat deliveries and teaching sailing, she was in the banking industry) to run the Ocean Dynamics operation at Hamilton Island.

Ocean Magic has three cabins and two heads catering for up to six passengers for overnight or extended charters. We opt for the starboard amidships cabin with its big berth and accommodating en suite. Baby Summer's travel cot and change table are in the little port cabin with bunks opposite, leaving the forward cabin and its en suite for the skipper and crew. As the boat has its own watermaker, there's no need to skimp on hot showers. In fact, there's even a washer-dryer if the urge takes you... far from your usual yacht charter.

It didn't go unnoticed that the en suite was stacked with lovely toiletries and sunscreen. I looked high and low for the promised bathrobe and slippers but they were not to be. Pity, as for months I had been picturing myself eating breakfast in a fluffy white robe, walking along Whitehaven Beach as though in a boating brochure, emerging from the water, having a deck shower and then donning the gown again. Nor could I find the hats, the champagne and chocolates promised on the website. Luckily, we brought our own. French, no less.

The great thing about a boat like this is the space. Needless to say, the saloon with its large L-shaped lounge and dinette is plenty big enough for the 4.5 of us. There's a large flat-screen television and DVD player if you tire of the view out of the large picture windows and windscreen. The galley is loaded with grub and on the same level as the saloon, which makes grazing all too easy. The whole boat including flybridge is air-conditioned, of course.

Every day our bed was made, bathroom cleaned and fresh towels seemed to be in endless supply. We are constantly offered refreshments and it seems as though nothing is too much trouble for the skipper and crew. They even watch the baby so we can enjoy a quick snorkel together. Sure beats your usual communal charter boat. The catering was adequate but next time, for my money, I would probably arrange my own provisions.

Finally, having spent many hours on boats at sea, I will add that the Riviera 47 travels well through the prevailing chop and southeast trade winds. The waters in this part of the world are rarely smooth, so a boat like Ocean Magic that handles the conditions the way it did is a real blessing. Little Summer even falls asleep on the flybridge as we travel between the islands. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Reel back...

CAST OFF
Before we could say "look at the colour of the water" the lines were cast and we were cruising with Hamilton Island fast disappearing astern. Late August is peak season: the weather is around 24ºC every day and that gorgeous blue water just a few degrees cooler. Whales are everywhere and the dreaded stingers (irukandji and box jellyfish) which inhabit the area from October until May haven't yet arrived.

Navigating, I soon decide, is a cinch in the Whitsundays. With modern electronics, all the hazards are readily apparent on the electronic (and paper) charts and the anchorages are easily identified. Most even have public moorings, colour coded for the size of your vessel (see box). There are also big marinas at Airlie Beach as well as Hamilton Island that cater to all your maintenance needs.

First stop: Stonehaven Anchorage on the western side of Hook Island, about 18nm from Hammo. We pass Dent and Henning Islands, shoot up Hunt Channel, past Cid Island and the popular anchorage at Cid Harbour, then along the western side of mountainous Whitsunday Island, which is punctuated by gorgeous sandy white beaches and encircled by fringing coral reefs. No wonder eagles, cockatoos and so many other birds call the big island home.

We note the underwater observatory in Hook Passage and the sleepy anchorages at Macona and Nara inlets. Apart from a lone yacht on a mooring, we have Stonehaven Anchorage to ourselves. It is not the calmest spot in the islands, buffeted as it is by the bullets of wind that make the Whitsundays such a sailing Mecca, but the scenery is spectacular: dramatic rocky escarpments and hoop pines peer down from above, while typical opalescent water tinkles, winks and solicits.

After a quick lunch of salad and cold meats we succumb to the call of the water. Even captain Andrew can't resist and is the first one overboard. A good spread of masks, snorkels and fins are never far away, as is some great snorkeling at Stonehaven. We spot plenty of brightly coloured coral and loads of fish, including a beautiful Venus tuskfish.

After an early start, we're happy spending the night at Stonehaven Anchorage. We finish the day with a hot deck shower and barbecue dinner before heading to our cabin for an early night. We sleep quite well in what proves to be quite a rocky anchorage and are woken at 6.30am by the generator. Ocean Magic doesn't have an inverter so there's no sleeping in if the crew decides to have an early morning cuppa. We enjoy eggs benedict and really good coffee while we discuss our plans for the day.

I really want to catch dinner, preferably a Spanish mackerel, so we troll outside the green zones but fail to hook anything. We pull the lines in as we approach Blue Pearl Bay on Hayman Island, grab another mooring and as we marvel at the pretty beach, captain Andrew drops some bread overboard. On cue, a school of batfish appears at the back of the boat. I'm first in the water with these beauties. The others throw more bread in the water and laugh as a batfish shoves me out of the way.

The coral at Blue Pearl Bay really is spectacular: I tick off brightly coloured brain, branch, fan and staghorn coral. The batfish mooch around and on our way to shore we swim through schools of angels, butterflies, batfish, parrots, damsels and others. There are also giant clams. Wonderful.

FAT ALBERT AND FRIEND
After a fresh fruit platter, we cruise around to Butterfly Bay, a heavenly anchorage on the northeastern side of Hook Island, underneath Mount Sydney. There are hamburgers on the barbie and before long, after I'm happy to go no further, we head over to Manta Ray Bay, reputedly one of the best snorkeling spots in the Whitsundays, as a dive boat vacates one of the few moorings (no anchoring allowed).

Nothing had prepared us for what happened next. As we sit admiring the beach, a huge blue shape materialises from the depths. It comes closer and closer, and then we see two eyes peering inquisitively. The huge hump-headed Maori wrasse is at least 20kg. It's the famous fish attraction Fat Albert!

He stares longingly up at us through the clear blue water before slowly surfacing, his big rubber lips agape and taking the piece of bread from my outstretched hand. Fat Albert's twin materialises from the big blue and now we have two wondrous fish swimming around the back of the boat for what seems like hours. I feed them our weekend's supply of bread and Summer giggles with glee as the fish eyeball her from the water. Keep those toes inboard!

Suffice to say, a snorkel around Manta Ray Bay does not disappoint and it almost seems surreal as we swim through schools of brightly coloured fish above the vibrant coral gardens. I almost forget to look up but when I do, I see hundreds of neon fusilier swimming my way. My partner, who has dived with Jean Michel Cousteau in Fiji, swum with dolphins in Tahiti and finned around the Barrier Reef, is similarly moved by the snorkeling. Which says something.

DINNER ON DECK
The captain suggests we head to Nara Inlet for our last night. It's no secret. The popular anchorage has five metres of water, a good hold over the mud bottom and is sheltered by steep hills. You can head to shore and walk to a lookout, or you can just sit back on deck and watch the sun set, which we do through the bottom of a glass of pink Moet. Dinner of red emperor was flown in from Bowen. Then come berries and ice cream, and the sounds of a large mammal surfacing in the dark.

In three days we have visited silica sand beaches, deep sheltered harbors, accommodating inlets and some of the 74 islands to explore. We have jumped off the transom and swum through warm turquoise water over the coral reefs replete with stunning fish. We have enjoyed a morning troll around the craggy headlands in search of Spanish mackerel and, as you do at this time of year, passed whales and their calves cavorting in the warm blue water. Not to mention befriending Fat Albert.

Of course, none of it is new. But from the comforts of a fast luxury charterboat we get our annual tropical fix just a few hours after leaving Sydney and, in the space of three days, see what would otherwise take others a week of windward-leeward sailing to achieve. Though it's not cheap, the experience is worth it. And next time, just maybe, we'll use the knowledge we've gleaned to gad about on our own boat for a month of Whitsundays wallowing.

• Katherine Staunton and family spent their time aboard Ocean Magic as a guest of Ocean Dynamics. For more information, phone Carolyn Lewis on 0400 744 850, or visit www.oceandynamics.com.au

CRUISING INFORMATION
Snapshot: The Whitsunday Islands are in central Queensland, about 1160km north of Brisbane and 737km south of Cairns. There are 74 islands including South Molle, Hayman, Brampton, Daydream, Lindeman, Long and Hook. Main entry points are Airlie Beach, Shute Harbour and Hamilton Island.

Getting there: There are two airports servicing the area: The Great Barrier Reef Airport on Hamilton Island and Whitsunday Coast Airport at Proserpine.

Marinas: There are several excellent marinas servicing the Whitsundays, including Mackay Marina Village and Shipyard (visit www.mackaymarina.com);
Abel Point Marina, Airlie Beach (visit www.abelpointmarina.com.au); and Hamilton Island Marina (phone 07 4946 8352; visit www.whitsundaytourism.com).

Reading references: The regional boating bible is 100 Magic Miles by David Colfelt - don't leave dock without it - and also Cruising The Coral Coast by Alan Lucas.

Mooring tips: Anchoring in the Whitsundays is serious business. Most everywhere is fringed by coral reefs, there are fast flowing currents and up to three-metre tides. The bullets or gusts are often double the normal wind strength. For these reasons, and anchoring restrictions in many areas, most boaties grab a blue courtesy mooring.

Mooring code: The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority has a code for its mooring buoys: red slash is for the largest vessels, up to 35m for a monohull and 30m for a multihull, in winds to 34kts; blue slash is for 25m monohulls and 20m multihulls in 34kts; green slash is for 20m monohulls and 18m multihull in 34kts; light brown is for boats to 10m in 24kts; and dark brown is a tender-only mooring.

There are hundreds of moorings strewn throughout the Whitsundays, but most have a time restriction. From 7am till 5pm there's a two-hour limit for swinging on the same mooring. But from the last two hours of the day, you can stay overnight and enjoy the first two hours on the mooring in the morning. Hence the rush before sunset for a mooring.