My Northern Moment
I arrived home and my wife said: "Oh, a guy rang and said you had won a trip on a boat. His number is over on the table." I called and it was Geoff Middleton (Trade-a-Boat's previous editor). "Congratulations, you've won three nights sailing the Whitsundays! Ever sailed before?" Middo added.
"No," I responded, "though my brother sails." And with that began the planning for my first ever trip to the Whitsundays. It helped that my wife suggested I make it a boys' trip. Calls were made, my brother Glenn, the sailor and a pilot, thus became the appointed Captain and Navigator. My mates, Steve and Russell formed the rest of the crew.
We were off on our Trade-a-Boat trip, flying into the Whitsunday Coast airport near Proserpine on the first day of spring. Here, we were greeted by sunny and warm conditions. Fantastic, we all thought, however, things do change (more on that later).
To get an early start on the yacht, we chose to fly in the day before our charter. Friends of ours caravanning around Australia stayed an extra week at Airlie Beach to show us around and catch up.
They told us this was the first warm day they had. Yet the locals were saying it was unseasonably cool. The next morning was a repeat of the day before, that is, looking good.
Down to Able Point Marina and the charter company Whitsunday Escape. Paperwork done, we were sized up for our snorkelling gear. Before long, we were sitting our compulsory induction briefing on the yacht that was to be our adventure vessel for the next four days. She was called, fittingly, Northern Moment.
What a lovely yacht she is, a 42-foot Bavaria, very clean, tidy and spacious, with three double cabins and two heads. Steve volunteers to sleep on the couch and everyone is happy. Provisions stored.
Tim goes through the comprehensive checklist, the safety features, how the equipment works, and so on. All goes smoothly and, collectively, our crew has more than 100 years experience on boats including a week of sailing a cat in the Whitsundays a few years previously.
OFF TO SEA
Time for a sea trial and to check our competency levels or otherwise. Before long, we are given the thumbs up. We sign some documentation for the last time, complete the briefing and safety instructions, and the instructor is ferried back to shore in the dinghy. Time to set sail.
We hoist the mainsail, unfurl the headsail, and set course for Langford Island. It's a small island and reef to the southwest of Hayman Island where, we are told, there is good snorkelling - nothing like getting underwater to clear the head.
With a steady breeze and calm waters we don't have to tack at all, it's a straight course down the rhumb line averaging four to five knots, with a beer and nibblies but for Captain Glenn the teetotaller.
Before long, we spot our first whale for the trip, a stirring sight, indeed. Unfortunately, Steve was utilising the head and missed the sighting, a real pity, as he was the only one of us not to have seen a whale in the (not-inconsiderable lump of) flesh before.
It's 2pm when we anchor off Langford. Before we go ashore, there's a compulsory radio call into Whitsunday Escape offices to gain an updated weather report and to notify them of our planned anchorage for the night.
The Whitsunday Escape fleet, as indeed is the case with all charter fleets, is to be on their night anchorage by 4pm to allow a safety margin before nightfall. Many of the reefs and passages are not well marked and, thus, not lit for night navigation.
We plan to anchor for the night in Stonehaven Bay. The weather report for the next day was for 20 to 25-knot winds, possible rain and three-metre seas. There is also another radio check at 8am each morning for weather updates.
With the radio check out of the way, it's time for a quick trip ashore to Langford in the dinghy and some snorkelling over the shallow fringing reef. The water was unexpectedly cold, however, and by the time we re-emerge it is starting to cloud over.
Thankfully, while underwater, the occasional sunny break allows the coral to show its true colours. There is an abundance of small fish of different shapes, types and colours - pretty as a postcard.
ISLAND ADVENTURES
Back on Northern Moment, we wash the salt away with the hot/cold transom shower, dry off and start up the Volvo Penta engine for the short cruise to our overnight anchorage. All the mooring buoys are occupied, so we set anchor with more than 40m of chain out to ensure we don't drift in the night.
Dinner was a BBQ on the back of the boat, steak and salad all round, followed by a DVD. An early night was in order, as we had been up since 4.30am to catch the early flight from Sydney.
Day Two: patchy sun and a stiffening breeze. We had planned to sail north around the top of Hook Island, through the narrow passage between it and Hayman, and then track off the eastern side of Whitsunday Island, south to Whitehaven Beach.
However, after advice from Whitsunday Escape, there was a quick change of plan to sail along the inside of Hook Island in what is known as the Whitsunday Passage before taking the smaller Hook Passage alongside Whitsunday Island to Whitehaven Beach.
Sailing into a southerly, we novices certainly got multiple lessons in tacking from Captain Glenn. On our first tack, Steve was on the high side, midships and learnt quickly how the boat can dig in and accelerate. Steve's eyes bulged from their sockets and I'm sure it's a moment he'll relive for years.
Entering Hook Passage, sheltered by Whitsunday Island, the wind dropped so we motored through. A pleasant and smooth-water experience, not like what was awaiting around the point.
Sails we hoisted again as we tacked southeast into a 25-knot tempest and three-metre seas. The boat was pitching as we rode the swell, the bow digging in, water rushing along the gunwales. I looked at Captain Glenn's and Russell's beaming smiles, so I knew everything was okay.
However, looking at Steve, I soon learnt that he is an enclosed-water type of boatie. The man was looking seedy, but hanging in there. Ah, it happens to even the best of us.
It was slow progress south, with lot's of tacking, a real solid day's sail. Our beaming captain was having a ball. Nice and bumpy, with strong winds are to his liking.
Closer to Whitehaven, as we approached Hill Inlet, the water and wind calmed. We could see the famous white sands of Whitehaven stretch before us for kilometres.
Unfortunately, the clouds had filled the skies, thus not allowing the sands to glisten as they do in postcards. The temperature had started to chill, too.
The next day's weather update was 20 to 25-knot winds with rain and a three-metre swell. With southerlies predicted overnight, we tried to anchor down the protected southern end of the beach. Many others had the same idea and beat us to the buoys. So we let out a lot of chain with the anchor again.
ASHORE THING
Into the dinghy for some exploration. Hey, there must have been more than 50 people on the beach, mostly day-trippers from the resorts. Russell told me that the sand is good for polishing jewellery. We good husbands polished our wedding bands and, later, told our wives we were thinking of them on our trip.
Back aboard Northern Moment, Steve refused Russell's offer of a beer - hmmm, he must be seedy - and I was still a little squeamish after the bumpy ride to Whitehaven. Captain Glenn and Russell just laughed. It was then that it started to sprinkle, so we all donned warmer clothes and pulled up the covers. The two lads go below and start prepping dinner, while Steve and I stay topside and fire up the BBQ.
After another great meal, we all relax topside, talk about the day's events and plan our next day's course. The stern light attracts a lot of fish, mostly small, though at times bigger ones up to 30cm come into view. So we feed them a little bread and the surface starts to boil.
In the distance we spot a mastlight coming toward us. It turns out to be an old square-rigger, but the motor sounds like it's about to shoot a piston out the side of the hull. Very loud and clangy, but it's worse below decks.
The wind and rain pick up during nibblies and a DVD. In fact, the wind chops up the water in what proves an exposed anchorage. We are in for a rough night if the wind persists. It does, till around 4am.
Day Three: the morning dawns calm though overcast with low-level cloud. Steve jumps in the dinghy and heads to the beach for a walk to freshen up. Then the BBQ gets another workout with sausages and eggs, a real boy's breakfast. We hold back on the beer.
The day's plan is to sail around the bottom of Whitsunday Island, past Hamilton, then perhaps overnight at Cid Island to allow for tomorrow's leisurely trip back to Airlie for our midday flight home.
The rain is back and, in fact, it's cold. We are all wearing our warm jackets when we motor from Whitehaven through Solway Pass with Haslewood Island to our east. As we clear the pass and I'm at the helm, we are met with strong southerlies and high seas.
In the troughs, all we see is water. Northern Moment handles it better than us. Hamilton resort is shrouded in low cloud and rain when we pass by and continue along Henning Island.
We are now back in the main passage almost completing a circumnavigation of the tremendous Whitsunday Island. The rain and wind have calmed a little. The update weather report has northerlies later, so we revise our plans to overnight at Cid Island.
YOU CAN DAYDREAM
Captain Glenn decides to unfurl the headsail so we can motorsail and instantly our speed increases by two knots, with the same engine throttle setting. We sail closer to the Molle islands and spot more whales. Best of all, Steve gets to see whales in the wild. There are a couple of small pods and we spot a calf that appears to be mimicking its mother's tail and flipper slaps. With these sightings, the whale sighting count jumped to 11.
We call into South Molle resort and enjoy our first good coffee in days. There is a great shell collection donated to previous owners and well worth a look. The resort is in need of an update, but it was great to stretch our legs.
With the expected northerlies, we motor the short distance over to Daydream Island to find a sheltered mooring for the night. We pay our $55 mooring fee, which includes use of the resort's facilities.
Russell and Steve decide to utilise the sauna and spa, Captain Glenn and I jump in the dinghy and have a look around. We found statues of mermaids on the rocks and the bird life appeared abundant, but I wonder if those statues will ever get their own back on the birds?
A quick shower and change onboard Northern Moment then Glenn and I meet Russell and Steve for a couple of games of pool at the bar. We caught the motorised golf buggy down to the southern tip of the island where we found a themed area, sort of like a pirates' cove. The restaurant was covered with all things pirate and old sail rigging, there was also an outdoor theatre.
Back on Northern Moment, we still had plenty of provisions for dinner. The expected northerly didn't show and the very calm waters allowed for peaceful sleep unlike the previous evening.
QUIET SEND OFF
Day Four: a millpond and sunny skies. Pity we have to leave today. After breakfast we motor the short distance back to the mainland and Able Point Marina. We all lament we have to return, as the weather is absolutely stunning. On the morning radio call in, another vessel asks if they can extend their stay, but regrettably for them, their boat is booked for another charter.
Back at the marina, the yacht is refuelled and the comment is made that "you guys must be sailors as you didn't use much fuel." I laughed to myself, as I didn't think that four days ago, but I am now.
Though the weather wasn't sunny all the time, we certainly had the varied conditions to give sailing a real go. Many thanks to everyone at Whitsunday Escape for making our short holiday fuss free. If you are thinking of visiting the Whitsundays then I do thoroughly recommend these operators.
Now I'm thinking about planning another trip to the Whitsundays: what will it be, power or sail? It's a tough choice, but one I hope to make soon. Either way, visit www.whitsundayescape.com for your way around the Whitsundays. Oh, and thanks to Trade-a-Boat for a great competition.